Spyderco Forums

Got my Chokwe on Wednesday and have the S110V Manix arriving Monday. As excited as I am about the Manix, I'm wondering if it will be able to kick the Chokwe out of my pocket. The Chokwe is my favorite knife in a long time.

Mine was waiting when I got home from work. I'm definitely pleased, and I love the color. Great fit and finish, perfectly centered and even grinds. It is a little less smooth than my other Para 2, but doesn't have the tiny bit of blade play. Looks like there's some thicker lube like MilTec in the ...

No paper work with mine either, I bought it the Summer of '10. Congrats, such a great knife!

Received and paid the paypal receipt yesterday morning! I'm really looking forward to this knife.

That proto looks super nice, I'm interested in seeing how it turns out.

Man, i carry my Para 2 every single day, without fail, and i'm in the same 100 degree 93% humidity you're in and i haven't had any rust issues yet.

Same here, and I completely agree. I think I also read somewhere that those stop pins aren't actually rusty, just unfinished/polished when being ...

The Lum Chinese may be perfect for you. Way thinner than the Delica, yet packs a lot more blade into a small handle. Plus it just looks gorgeous, whether closed or open.

I like Spyderco's serrations, but I'm not a fan of combo edges. Give me a plain edge or a serrated, but no half and half. All or nothing!

I'm a big fan of the colors. My two most common EDC Spydies are my orange Millie and grey Para 2. Makes the knifes raise less eyebrows in public, plus I just plain like the colors. Every folder seems to come in black, nothing wrong with variety.

pmbspyder wrote:Curious: what did this knife retail at originally? I feel like it was around $130 at KC....can anyone back me up on that?

I got mine for $139.95 plus shipping on the knife I pre-ordered from KC.

yablanowitz wrote:In a word, no. Nothing will make them happy, that's what makes them complainers.

Well said.

Work hardening is quite an interesting phenomenon...

Work hardening is not caused when you sharpen or touch up your knife. The work hardening occurs during the manufacturing process when the two grinding wheels are giving the blade it's hollow grind. SE H1 is said to have a higher hardness due to ...

I keep my Ladybug on my keys. Having something on the end definitely makes the knife fit in hand better, and open easier.

S30V is actually one of my favorite steels. It's not that hard to sharpen and hold and edge well enough for most purposes. I can get my S30V blades easily scary sharp and though it loses that fine edge fast, it does hold that working edge for a long time and keeps on cutting.

I find that it a ...

It happens to me too, and I use a Sharpmaker. Yablanowitz is right, it's from your sharpening technique. I've found if I slow down and use the corners of my Sharpmaker rods, it helps to get rid of that line. But I agree with you, it doesn't bother me or effect how the knife cuts.

Earth's human population has always always 1 billion or less. By 1900 it rose to 3 billion with the industrial revolution. By 2000, we had reached almost 7 billion because of petroleum. 133% growth in a century.

I agree that the politics of climate change is awful. And I agree that there is ...

I must be in the minority of those who prefer tip down. Especially on the Military, tip up would simply not feel as natural.

The Sage 3 is great. Unfortunately I had to sell mine. I really liked the blue G10 and the lock. The ergos were great (it is a Sage :) ) and it was extremely smooth. No play at all, easier to close than the CBBL, and the back spacer didn't even look like a separate piece. The overall profile is only ...

And it seemed implied that S30V was NOT the preferred steel in this knife...

I might be in the minority, but I really like Spyderco's S30V prefer it to quite a few different steels. My S30V Military is one of my most sharpest knives, and I've put it through a ton.

But I could never say no to a ...

Work hardening is caused by the heat (friction) of the two grinding wheels putting the hollow grind on the H1 blades. Combine that with the very detailed serrated edge (more machining), and you have at least 1/2" of area that was affected by the grinding. You won't be able to sharpen away the ...