Spyderco Forums

I like pinned too. Feels better on the fingers, looks better, and I've never had loosening issues.

Hey everyone- I haven't had the time to participate much, but I've been lurking a few times a month to keep updated on the community (of which I'm very fond) and company (of which I'm equally fond).

I was given a Native yesterday. I really love it a lot, especially since as anyone who remembers me ...

While I don't have one to confirm, the Assist doesn't look much broader than a Rescue to me. It was designed to work with gloved hands too.

It's missing the nice "ramp" on the tip the Saver/Jr has though. Sorry I'm being so picky here. I'll have to see how the Atlantic tip works for getting under ...

Blerv wrote:How about an "Assist Hawk"? :D

Basically a bull-nosed dull hawkbill. Good for pull-cuts and not impaling people. You lose a bit of sawing power over the rescue blade but can hook the material.

I could see it. Just as long as it has a hooked butt on the handle, I'm happy! :D

SmoothOne25 wrote:ok well best of luck, god bless!

Same to you brother! :)

why not get the dallara rescue... about the same. not as grippy as g10 for the "super" family but close enough till sal makes one. i also agaree g10 rescue blunt tip on the superleaf body

As much as I hate to dismiss a blade as great as the D'Allara probably is, the blade is too broad to be ...

I think you had recommended one to me before, but I find the blade to be too broad. A rounded tip wharncliffe is the best for rescue IMO. It slips under straps and webbing the best,

+1

Spyderco's serrations + sheepsfoot blade in a heavy duty package = winner in my book. My only gripe would be that the knife would be far out of my price range...FRN is my friend :D

Complete with compression lock? It would be excellent.

I'm broke but if I know a knife will help me do my job ...

Sal:

What would it take to convince you to put a Rescue blade in the Superhawk/Leaf handle? From someone who uses rescue knives for rescue purposes and commonly has the problem of the serrations binding and the knife slipping out of gloved hands, I think the hooked butt would be perfect!

I'd ...

Now that's a story! Spyderco ftw.

Thanks! :)

The G-10 UKPK rescue was on sale from SFO last time I checked, but if the FRN was slipping out of your gloves, I don't know that the G10 is going to do any better, especially in a slightly more compact package. Sounds like you need different handle ...

I prefer the atlantic/rescue over the saver/rescue jr pattern because I like more blade when i can get away with it. when i am lobstering i prefer a folding knife over a fixed blade, especially on my boat, as it is tight quarters and i have found sheath knives to get caught on things, and ...

I'm crossposting this from BF, but I wanted to share my love of Spydies here too. :spyder:

And I like to shamelessly plug how I have significantly cooler uses for my Spydies than most people. :D The unique, versatile designs that Spyderco gives us allow even complete idiots (I really am, that's not ...

chuck_roxas45 wrote:The work that goes into it to make it a knife.

There's probably no data for pre-rolled H1, but the spine numbers listed above are representative of post-roll.

The PE numbers show the hardness at the hollowgrind, and the edge numbers for SE are self explanatory.

What I'm really curious about is how much the work hardening "hardens" the H1. Does it harden it say 5 points on the RC? Or more? Less?

Which stage?

Rolling, grinding, or sharpening? I think sharpening is probably negligible. Grinding obviously does a lot, just because SE is 5 points higher.

I was thinking of how hard a new H1 blade might be. If there is a significant difference between spine hardness and edge hardness, then we'll know the edge hardened because of the work to grind it. It would also be very interesting to see how much the difference is between the spine and the "work ...

Some steels like S30V have been reported to display age hardening - ie it show improved edge retention just from sitting in a drawer. H1 is supposed to develop work hardening from being sharpened. I have not had personal exerience of H1 edge hardening and presume it is similar to the hardening ...

I have VERY little knowledge on this, but isn't the heat caused by the friction of "working" the knife harden it? If so, the heat generated must go deeper than just the shallow surface area being removed, correct?

No. Otherwise you could hold the knife between your buttcheeks and get it a lot ...

What steel would you say it compares to, in edge retention?

Honestly, I think a good comparison to H1 is Buck's 420HC. Similarly easy to sharpen, both take razor sharp edges. 420 rolls instead of abrading, so it is very different in that respect, but the end result on paper cut tests is the same ...

chuck_roxas45 wrote:I wonder how it got the reputation of being soft when it's harder than most of the blades Spyderco uses. :confused:

Harder than VG-10 and S30V and it's still soft? :rolleyes:

It's not soft.

It doesn't hold an edge as well as VG10.

It's still a hard steel.

Does that mean it's harder than the S30V Spyderco uses? :confused:

Yup.

Bear in mind this only means it won't roll as readily..It doesn't mean it will hold an edge longer. S30V is better in that regard, it has nasty carbides.

It can be sharpened to what I refer to as "stupid sharp"

It's one ...