Spyderco Forums

Nice job! How long is that edge, btw?

Again I'll suggest the hole be larger, about the size used in Endura or even Pacific Salt folders. Much easier to clean.

These are beautiful knives. I’d be in for either or both. Bowie is easily my favorite blade shape.

Possibly rather than a rat-tail tang use the regular full-tang slab approach, but make it rectangular rather than pointed. Easy to make rectangular or octagonal scales. Think of it as a Japanese-style handle, but with a western-style tang.

Facinating little knife. Way too pricey for me but interesting design. I have used slip joints plenty(Victorinox) and am very comfortable with non-locking knives, but I'm curious, are Spyderco slipits as they call them different from a traditional slip joint in some way? I have to admit the UKPK ...

I actually like the idea of the thread but, as David said, it's really hard to keep said thread from becoming a hangout for whiners and fanboys.

While I understand that the party most expert in adjudicating QC issues is Spyderco, I'm pretty sure that a broken tip is exactly the sort of flaw that ...

TkoK83Spy wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 11, 2026 3:30 pm

Will you give it a rest? If you don't like the thread or the idea of it, you don't have to comment.

Yes, it is a known characteristic of this model that the closing bias is pretty strong, but the "stay-open" bias is not. Unlike the original P.I.T.S. and the UKPK, to name two examples. I still like it a lot because of its build quality and unique design, but not as much as those models. It's more ...

Yeah I hear you, normally I like scooping out as much material between the heel and handle in an arc shape. I'll share a picture later tonight but yes. That definitely makes for a better pinch grip and shorter overall knife (which I usually like)

I agree with you vivi, that thumb ramp in my mind ...

If the 50th Anniversary Native is even remotely affordable, I'm in (if I can get one). The MuntjaX looks really nice, but possibly hard-to-get and expensive. And I already have way too many fixed blades as it is, so that one's probably a no. None of the Smock- and Kapara-like models appeal, since I ...

Easily the fluted Ti Millie.

I've only been here a few years, and I've already seen this discussed several times. I agree 100% that a Spyderco custom shop would be enticing. But note the price difference in a knife coming from Spyderco versus one coming from an authorized dealer. Would buying a custom knife from Spyderco be ...

If any model I already like becomes available in K390, it's a nearly automatic purchase. A Manix would definitely be automatic.

For those without a loupe, smartphone cameras work pretty well. Of course you're limited to the power of your phone's lens. I believe mine is 12X, and that's easily enough to check for burrs and remaining Sharpie.

bob-atlatl wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 02, 2026 12:28 pm

Asked AI to change a few things on my previous image, its still a full flat grind :

Well that would be an automatic purchase for me...

Finishing step and/or to confirm I've eliminated a burr. I do find, or maybe think I find, that stropping helps a little, i.e., the blade feels marginally sharper in the moment. All that said, if my knife is dull I sharpen it on stones.

Shouldn't this thread be in the byrd forum? Just sayin...

This thread perfectly explains why the Yojumbo feels more comfortable in my average-sized hand than the smaller Yojimbo 2, despite being a much larger knife. No hump to force my thumb to a specific spot, when combined with grooves to do the same with my fingers. One or the other works for me, but ...

Really, really well-thought-out. I would buy one. Very glad to hear you intend a button for the comp lock, as that would eliminate the only possible hot spot in your otherwise smooth handle. Awesome work!

For a generic knife, I'd go choilless 10 times out of 10. However, my favorite designs have choils: the Military 1 and 2, the Stretch family, the Manix family... I can't remember the last time I actually used a choil, though.

I don't have a preference for either of those huge categories, but if I could have only one knife I'd want it to be as close to rust-proof as possible. That would be H1/H2. So, back-to-the-wall, I guess it's stainless.

My actual situation is that I can have many knives, and looking at my collection ...